The dunes of Sossusvlei, Namibia

Looking towards the sunset from a dune in Sossusvlei. The circles in the middle of the image are called “fairy circles” and their origin is still being debated, but the leading theory is sand termite colonies beneath the soil

We visited Sossusvlei, located in west-central Namibia, in August 2014. The word Sossusvlei really refers to one specific clay pan in the Namib-Naukluft National Park, but it is used generally to describe the entire scenic desert area surrounding it. We heard it was a must-see destination in Namibia and our visit absolutely lived up to the high expectations. Towering red sand dunes, craggy mountains and a clear blue sky dominated our impressions of Sossusvlei. Even with a number of other visitors congregating at the popular sites, the vastness of the place imprinted itself in our minds. The area is perfect for quiet contemplation, solitude (just hike a short distance from the crowds to claim your own private sand dune) and photography. I wish I had a wide angle lens for this trip as the images below do not do it justice.

The view from the top of Dune 45, looking towards the sunrise.

Travel to Namibia, and to Sossusvlei in particular, has gotten much more international attention in recent years and while it has long been a popular destination for European travelers, more marketing has been done to get Namibia on the radar of American media outlets such as CNN and the New York Times (Namibia is ranked number six on their list of the top 52 places to visit). The deserts of Namibia also provided some of the filming locations for the new Mad Max movie.

Lisa descending from Dune 45. We climbed this high dune to catch the sunrise and enjoyed amazing 360 degree views.

More views from the top of dune 45.

We booked a three day/two night camping option through Wild Dog Safaris. The total cost was about $340 per person and it was definitely worth it as they handled transport, park fees, all meals and the 4am wake up call to catch the sunrise. Our guide was extremely knowledgeable and had previously worked on the anti-poaching unit in Etosha National Park and with the Ministry of Environment and Tourism.

We departed mid-morning from Windhoek and after a very long but scenic drive, we arrived in the early evening and barely had time to scramble up a dune to catch the sunset. The dune was close to the campground so after the colors on the horizon faded, we returned for a delicious dinner and helped the guides to finish setting up the tents. This was true “glamping” with mattresses and comforters provided.

The next day we got moving very early and climbed the very popular Dune 45 before dawn to catch the sunrise. After our climb, we drove on to another scenic spot and followed our guide on a few kilometer hike to deadvlei, which is one of the most photographed places in Namibia. We ended the day with a hike into Sesriem Canyon and watched the sunset from the top of the safari vehicle.

The Sossusvlei desert landscape during our hike to deadvlei.

The cracked clay earth looks almost like landscaping stones.

A pattern in the sand during our tour of the desert.

Another benefit to a tour group is the interesting mix of backgrounds and nationalities of your fellow travelers. Our group included a Scottish man and an Australian woman who live and work in Kenya; a family of three from another country in Europe (we can’t remember exactly where), a German woman living in Durban, South Africa and her friend visiting from Germany; a Frenchman who works in New York City part of the year and travels for the rest; a young man from London; and a young scientist from Denmark.

Deadvlei, where the winds sweep the sands across the valley in between the high dunes, leaving the white clay floor and fossilized trees exposed.

The view from the clay pan of deadvlei. Due to the extremely dry climate, these dead trees do not decompose and have been here for around 900 years. The color in this image has been altered slightly to give more of a sense of what the experience was actually like. The mid-day sun washed out most of the photos from this part of the trip.

An solitary oryx in the desert near Sossusvlei.

It is also easy to rent a car in Windhoek and drive to the park. The road is mostly gravel, but it can be done in a 2WD vehicle in about six hours.

My token bird photo for this post! An ostrich along the gravel road leading back to the campsite.

The shadows of our tour group standing on the opposite rim of Sesriem Canyon. The narrow sandstone walls in some sections reminded us of the slot canyons of San Rafael Swell in Utah.

Enjoying the scenery near Sesriem Canyon at sunset.

Learner of the Week – Metride Uupindi

Learner of the Week is given out in my class on Fridays based on the learner who had the best behavior, academic performance or just overall good citizenship that week.

Metride Uupindi, Grade 8, 13 years old

Mother tongue/tribe: Vambo

What is your favourite thing about school?

It has a library.

Who lives with you at your house? What are some of the chores you have to do at home?

I live with my aunty. I clean the house, wash dishes, etc.

What would you like people in America to know about your country, Namibia?

Namibia is a very interesting country, there are deserts and many more.

What are some of your goals and dreams? What do you want to be when you grow up?

My goal is to study very hard to get good marks. I want to become a doctor one day.

What is your favourite thing about your culture and Namibia?

People are kind and there are swimming pools in certain places.

Who is your hero and why?

My hero is my aunt because she has always been there for me in good times and in bad.

What are some challenges you face, at school or at home?

At school it’s math but I will keep on going.

The weather in Rundu, Namibia

What if someone told you that the weather at your Peace Corps site would be sunny with low humidity and with daytime temperatures in the 80’s°F (about 28°C) and nights in the 50’s°F (about 12°C)? Pretty perfect, right? That is one great benefit about being placed in Rundu in Kavango East region because that is the typical daily forecast in the winter months (May to August).

This is not to say that everything is perfect here in Rundu. The dry conditions mean that dust and sand are everywhere, and many people burn their trash and brush so often there is also a haze of smoke in the air.

The weather here in the dry season is very consistent!

In the summer, temperatures can often exceed 100°F (38°C) with the annual rainy season usually beginning in December and lasting until March. This year was very dry and many crops failed. The inconsistent rainfall we receive is one reason why Namibia has been primarily used for livestock in terms of agriculture.

During a normal rainy season, it might rain for a week straight at times. This weather pattern makes it difficult to do things like hang laundry to dry on our clothesline outside. The end of the rainy season can also get a little cold, especially now that we are used to a very warm climate. No one here has a heater, but we just bundle up a bit and by mid-morning the sun usually warms things up. Namibians consider a cloudy rainy day to be a beautiful day. Rain is needed for crops and provides a relief from the strong sun. 

Reader of the Week – Gaseb Habakkuk, Grade 6

A few months ago on Facebook I posted a picture of this learner. He’s in grade 6 and checks out high school level books from our library. He always comes to the library with a great attitude and a smile on his face.

Gaseb Habakkuk, Reader of the Week, Grade 6, 12 years old

Mother Tongue: Herero

What do you love about books?

They teach me a lot of things. They improve my knowledge and upgrade my brain with a lot of details. I love everything about books.

What is your favourite book or author and why?

My favourite book is the big physical science book at our school library because it teaches me about body parts, how to build mechanical things and gives me more information. My favourite author is Edward Teller.

What inspires or interests you to read books?

When I look at a book I see knowledge flowing through my brain. What interests me is when I read a specific book it makes me want to continue the whole book.

What kind of books do you like to read and why?

Science books, especially animal books. They inspire me to try new things and learn about new animals and see new things.

What are some of your goals and dreams?

My goal is to finish school and be an explorer or a lawyer. My dream is to be in a tough situation and make the best of it. I also want America to see Namibia as a place where smart kids are.

The price of going out to eat in Namibia and a love letter to Kavango River Lodge <3

A big topic of conversation among Peace Corps Volunteers is food. We crave the “American” types of foods that we can’t get in our host country. We are eager for payday so we can splurge on chocolate and cheese. However, we have many more options for food than I expected.

In Namibia’s capital of Windhoek you can find almost any type of food. But we don’t get to visit the capital often as it’s an eight hour drive. The grocery stores in the capital offer many more spices and different ethnic foods.

Enjoying a beer with our good friend, fellow PCV, and my female husband, JT, during PST. These large draft beers cost $N18 in Okahandja, or less than $2USD. Primarily only light beer without much flavor is available in Namibia. At a shebeen a “Forty” size beer is N$16, or about $1.60USD. The seedier the bar, the cheaper the beer.

The menus at many restaurants throughout the country are quite similar and often include steaks, burgers, fries, chicken and toasties (grilled cheese) as well as some traditional food. Many of the restaurants in Rundu are tourist lodges, but most of the travelers are Namibians here for business, so the food tends to be geared towards a Namibian palate. On a Peace Corps budget we eat in most nights, but we are able to make a variety of meals as more exotic ingredients such as olive oil, Indian spices, soy sauce and black beans can be found here in town. Other ingredients such as green curry, coconut oil or tortillas are available in Windhoek.

The take-away (to go) options at gas stations and small food stands tend to be chicken or meat with chips (french fries), meat pies or macaroni or pasta salad. Kapana, or grilled street meat, is also common. I will miss the french fries in Namibia a lot! They are salted and seasoned to perfection with vinegar and spices.

One of my local favorites is Hungry Lion, a South African chain. The fried chicken there is so tasty and I think superior to KFC’s fried chicken and chips (although Josh prefers KFC). The first KFC recently opened in Rundu (which they are calling Kavango Fried Chicken), and it is quite the status symbol to be able to eat there as the chicken is more expensive.  My friends and I try to go to Hungry Lion on Tuesdays because they offer TwoForTuesdays when it is buy one get one free.

Two pieces of chicken and chips will cost you $N20, or about $2USD on TwoForTuesday. Yum.

The costs for meals and groceries can vary depending on what part of the country you are in and what is easily-grown or available, but on average going to a very nice place to eat will be around $N100-$N150, or about $10USD-$15USD a plate. Take-away is likely under $N30-40 or about $3USD-$4USD.

Alcohol is extremely CHEAP in Namibia. I’ve bought chocolate bars and cool-drinks (sodas) that cost more than a beer. Unfortunately, I think the inexpensive booze contributes to alcoholism in Namibia. People tend to either drink to excess, or they’re sworn it off completely because they’ve seen what it has done to friends and family.

Every glass of wine served is a very full pour at Kavango River Lodge! This glass with the beautiful view of the river will cost you $N18, or about $1.80USD.

We can get pizza here! And it’s good! Omashare Lodge right up the street from our flat has a pretty extensive pizza menu.

The delicisosa pizza available at Omashare. And boy is it delisciosa! It has minced meat, onions, mushrooms and cheese of course. This pizza cost $N105, or about $10USD.

Sundowners are very popular in Namibia and Southern Africa. I love them! You gather with friends and enjoy watching the sunset with a drink and/or food/braai. The sunsets in Namibia are very colorful and incredible. We’ve also been fortunate to view them from the river while on boat tours.

View from a recent sundowner at Kavango River Lodge. Every one is different, every one spectacular!

In the coastal resort town of Swakopmund you can enjoy delicious sushi! Only in Swakop and Windhoek will you find sushi.

This sushi meal plus 2 adult beverages cost us $27 USD or $N270. Quite the splurge but we’ve only had sushi a few times a year since moving here.

Coffee shops are not very common outside of Windhoek and Swakop. Here’s a photo of a cappuccino I got in Livingstone, Zambia at a cafe. It was heaven to enjoy this in a nice outdoor cafe. I really do miss coffee shops!

This tasty cappuccino cost about $2USD. In Windhoek and Swakop the price is about the same for a fancy coffee beverage.

It’s important to note that while these temptations exist, the majority of people in Namibia cannot afford to go out to eat much, or at all. Many of my learners have told me that despite living near lodges or restaurants, they’ve never gone out to eat in one. Many colleagues who grew up in a village didn’t go out to eat until they were in college or professionals. As PCVs, we make only $N2,000/month, and spending N$100 on one meal can be a bit extravagant for our modest income.

At Kavango River Lodge near our flat, I have enjoyed what I consider to be one of the best meals in any country. I am obsessed with the amazing garlic prawns. I talk about them often. After one exceptional dinner, I asked to finally meet the chef. I wanted to praise her excellent work in person. I told her how if I had to pick a last meal of my life, these prawns would be on the list. I will miss this meal when we leave. During my conversation with the chef, I found out that I teach her daughter! She is a grade 8 learner of mine. Luckily she is one of my favorites, not a naughty learner. 😉  Rundu is very small.

The most beautiful meal in all of Namibia, the prawns with chips at Kavango River Lodge. The prawns are topped with garlic and chili. The side is cheesy cauliflower. Some prawns are missing because I started eating so fast. This meal costs N$90 or about $9USD.

Going out to eat is one of my favorite parts of American life, but during service we have enjoyed getting into a habit of preparing most of our meals at home. It helps that we have a little more free time to spend making meals. I hope to do more of that when we are back in the U.S., and I know that my wallet and Mr. Money Mustache, a personal hero of ours, will thank me. : )

Chapter 31 of Charlie and the Chocolate Factory

At the end of last term, one group of learners decided to write instead of sing or draw about Charlie. They wrote Chapter 31 of Charlie and the Chocolate Factory (there are 30 chapters in the book).

This chapter was written by my highest performing and best writer in grade 8. Some of the sophisticated vocabulary words were words my learners were tested on each week when we had spelling tests every Friday.

Chapter 31 of Charlie and the Chocolate Factory

Written by Caorline Tokwe. Ideas by Jeremiah, Genevive, Caroline, Gabriela, Christofina, Abigail K and Regina.

It didn’t take long for Charlie, his parents, grandparents, Mr. Wonka and the oompa loompas to adapt to the Chocolate Factory and call it home.

They had a very settled life and spent Christmas donating sweets and candy to the homeless. After Charlie turned 15 Grandma Georgina and Grandpa George had to live in an old age home. Grandpa Jo and Grandma Josephine were old too but they could still do a little work. Soon Mr. Wonka fell ill as well. Mr. and Mrs. Bucket opened a café called The Chocolate River where they sold the best and freshest chocolate from the river in the factory as well as Mr. Wonka’s famous chocolate bars.

Although life was splendid, there were times that Charlie feared that it would not be long before his beloved grandparents and the man he had learned to love and admire the most were soon to fade away.

All these thoughts made Charlie think about making a type of candy so wonderful that it could help old people regain their strength. Mr. Wonka was astounded by this idea but unfortunately could not live to see this magnificent invention start to shape. Mr. Wonka passed on not too long before Charlie began working on this. But before leaving the world, he gave Charlie the name for this candy – the Revitalizor Sweet.

Mr. Wonka was buried in a coffin made from the strongest and hardest type of candy. They had a great ceremony to honor his memory.

After months of working, Charlie had almost finished making Revitalizor. He just needed one more ingredient and this was only to be found on the Island of Red Leaves.

Charlie went to this mysterious island with two of his oompa loompas. Upon arrival it seemed like a peaceful place until they noticed a strange object swinging from the vines. Eventually Charlie noticed that it was a girl swinging.

Charlie was frightened, flabbergasted more than he had ever been. They exchanged greetings and explained his strange arrival to this weird island of isolation. The girl, Tygres, asked how she could accompany him on his journey.

Charlie explained what he was looking for and lucky for him she knew just where to find it. After Charlie took the quantity he needed, he felt like it was his responsibility to take this Tygres with him. He didn’t want to leave her with the tigers. After a few minutes of convincing she agreed to come with him.

The two oompa loompas, Charlie and Tygres went back to the Chocolate Factory. Charlie finished his invention which allowed for old people to regain their strength. After awhile Charlie and Tygres fell in love. Together they carried out many more successful inventions like sweets that make you fall asleep and many more. They lived happily ever after.

Top ten best items we bought in Peace Corps Namibia

In previous posts, we highlighted the top items Josh and Lisa brought to Peace Corps Namibia. Namibia is developing rapidly, especially in the capital of Windhoek, and most anything can be purchased there including laptops, high end kitchen items and flat screen televisions. However, with a much smaller consumer market, non-consumable goods tend to be more expensive and sometimes even double the price. Our monthly salary of about US$185 does not allow for many extravagances since we are expected to live at the level of the people we serve. 

Josh demonstrating the best purchases we have made in Namibia!

Here is a list of the top items we bought in Namibia that have improved our service:

• Kettle to boil water – We probably use this more than any other item.
• Fan – During the very hot summer nights, this makes sleeping a little easier. Also great to keep mosquitoes at bay.
• Decent plastic cutting board – Paired with the knife we brought, this has made for much faster meal preparations.
• Ray-Ben sunglasses – Only N$40 (or US$4) and has lasted me for nearly two years.
• French press – Sold as a coffee plunger here. A fresh cup of strong coffee is a nice treat to get you going in the morning.
• Nonstick pan – After wasting a half inch of hash browns that fused onto our original metal frying pan, we opted to buy a decent nonstick pan. This is used everyday at least once and is great for heating up leftovers since we are “not having a microwave.”
• Shitenge shirt – A stylish birthday gift that Josh bought for himself. (Lisa has had some shitenges made into skirts.)
• Handmade crafts as gifts for family and friends – We already took some of these back to the U.S. last May, but it is nice to support local crafters and these make truly unique gifts. Many of these crafts are made by the famous Kavango woodcarvers of our region.
• Braai grill – This great innovation just requires one flip!
• Plastic buckets – During our road trip around the U.S. before we left for Namibia, we met up with a RPCV (Returned Peace Corps Volunteer) in Portland, Oregon. He had a great observation about his service in Malawi, “I don’t know where Africa would be without plastic buckets.” We use large plastic basins for washing clothes, backpacks, ourselves, and a puppy.

On being a married volunteer couple in the Peace Corps

Josh and I exploring at Epupa Falls in Namibia

We have two months left to go in our Peace Corps Namibia service. It is a big mixed bag of emotions as we get ready to leave our home for the last two years.  We are sad, excited, nervous, eager for our next adventure, proud. It has been an incredible journey, filled with highs, lows and everything in between.

Married couples make up only 7% of Peace Corps volunteers, the rest are single. My hats off to the single volunteers – I’m not quite sure how they do it on a daily basis.  Here are my thoughts on serving as a married couple in Peace Corps:

• Your partner is your main source of support. They hear all the details of your life abroad, and can remind you of your way and purpose if you get lost. You get to share and ponder the cultural questions,  marvel at the beauty around you, figure out solutions to problems and laugh at the things that happened and the things you’ll never understand.  Aside from working my stress out during workout videos, and my few very close Namibian and PCV friends, Josh has been a source of sanity for me. We don’t have the same kind of social life here as we did at home, our jobs aren’t as demanding, and we get more vacation time, so we spend a lot more time together. Single volunteers can easily get lonely at site- married couples have to sometimes balance too much couple vs. alone time (especially if you married an introvert:)). Seeing more of Josh has been one of my favorite parts about my Peace Corps experience. Aside from one another, our support systems from home are still in place, but it’s hard to really understand life here unless you’re living it!
• “Happiness only real when shared.” – Sharing the highs and lows of Peace Corps can be great but also difficult. This isn’t different from a couple living in their home country, of course. That is marriage – sharing the highs and the lows of life. However, I will say from first-hand experience, that living overseas, traveling and serving in the Peace Corps, can bring extremities. The highs feels incredibly high, and the lows feel incredibly low. You could have had a great day at work, and you come home to a crying wife eating brownie batter (this example actually happened quite a few times during our first year). You have to navigate the waters of sharing this experience, help pick your partner up, without letting them get you too down.

The married couples in our group, Group 38. All still serving and all still married! These guys have become great friends.

• Intertwined identities. At home my colleagues knew I was married  – but they didn’t know my spouse as well as they do here in our small community. I teach some of Josh’s colleagues’ children, my learners see him in town and greet him, and I am asked often “Where’s your husband?”  Your spouse really becomes a part of your identity in the Peace Corps. I will miss everyone knowing who I’m married to.
• Pushing one another. One of the lowest points in my service was when we returned from the USA after burying my Dad. I was met with challenges as any newly-minted teacher is, but on top of that, I was dealing with grief and adjusting to cultural norms. Josh was able to remind me why we signed up to do this, that the hard parts were part of the job, and helped me re-focus. He was a great support. Most importantly, he assured me that if this was going to be a miserable time, that we should quit. It was important to remember that our marriage and relationship and happiness came first.
• Having someone to help share the load. On a weekly basis Josh helped me mark countless spelling tests to ease my stress level. During exam time,  he was eager with red pen in hand to help me mark 660 exams. When I needed help figuring out the best way to approach a lesson, he offered his advice. When one of us had a bad day at work, the other cooked and together we watched a show. When something happened that was culturally frustrating, a text back with empathy and a reminder that that is part of this great ride we call the Peace Corps experience. We also got to share successes and feel as if they were ours collectively. Teamwork, teamwork, teamwork! Josh is always my first pick for a teammate. 🙂
• Learning about each other’s sector work. I am an English teacher at a secondary school and Josh is a Community Economic Development Volunteer at a vocational training center. It has been educational to learn about each other’s jobs and work sites. I feel like I know the challenges and rewards of another PC sector without having had to do the job myself. Josh says that substitute teaching a day of my classes was one of his hardest days of service!

I’m so glad Peace Corps allows married couples to serve together. There can be some drawbacks too, of course, like relying and hanging out with your spouse too much (which doesn’t help you integrate in your community). Living overseas together brings new stresses but luckily Josh and I had been married for a long time before Peace Corps to work out a good system of supporting one another. I feel like we’ve been able to maintain a healthy balance in our community while strengthening our marriage during this unique experience. It is so great to share this ride with my best friend.

The many tribes of Namibia

With only 2 million people in its 318,246 square miles, Namibia is one of the least densely populated countries on earth. During our service in Peace Corps Namibia, we have experienced this small population first-hand throughout our service, as we meet so many people who know us through others, or we have bumped into people we know even when traveling hours away from our hometown. The six degrees of separation theory feels like only two degrees in Namibia.

A very young independent country, what Namibia lacks in population size it makes up for in its diversity of land and people. In Namibia there are deserts, forests, tropics, ocean and rivers. There are 13 major tribes and many other smaller tribes represented. One example of this is in the Kavango Region when people from traditionally Angolan tribes migrated to Namibia during the Angolan civil war.

There are 13 regions (states) in Namibia, and tribes tend to be clustered in one part of the country, except in towns, where you will find all tribes represented. One of the advantages of living in a town is that you get to know learners from many of the different tribes. If you lived in a village, it’s most likely you would only get to know one tribe.

Here are some very short generalizations about the commonly encountered tribes of Namibia. It is impossible to sum up a group of people, their history and their culture in just a few short sentences. Some tribes continue to live a traditional life, while others live in very modern lives in modern housing. (The information below is taken from Culture Smart! Namibia: The Essential Guide to Customs & Culture by Sharri Whiting.)

• Kavango – A Bantu-speaking tribe and the dominant tribe of the region where we live. Most live along the Kavango River, which flows close to our flat. Some Kavangos are word carvers or basket weavers and those crafts have been the source of where much of my American money has gone for souvenirs.

With fellow PCVs at our Cultural Food Day during PST (Pre-Service Training). Our PC Daughter, Mary Grace and myself on the right are dressed in Kavango shitenges. Our friends to the left of us are dressed to represent the Damara tribe.

• Herero – A tribe with a sad history of violence by the Germans, this tribe live mostly in the countryside and are primarily cattle farmers, eating meat and not fish, unlike the Kavangos and Caprivians. The Herero are easily recognizable by long Victorian dresses and the women’s hats that are shaped like a cow’s horns.

Herero women during a cultural event in Okahandja.

• Damara – This tribe lives in Damaraland. They were enslaved by the Nama centuries ago and their language today reflects a mix of Nama and the original Damara.
• Ovambo – Another Bantu-speaking tribe, the “Vambos” in Namibia are known as the entrepreneurs, the risk-takers, the movers and shakers. Up until this last election, two Vambos had been president in Namibia.

My friend Eve on the night before her wedding. Her namesake was giving her blessings and gifts before the big day at her homestead. She is a Vambo, her husband a Kavango. The wedding was a blend of both cultures.

• Nama– The Nama are lighter-skinned than many other tribes in Namibia. Most Namas live in the south of Namibia.
• Caprivian– The former Caprivian Strip, now known as the Zambezi strip, is surrounded by rivers. Caprivians are fishermen as well as agriculturists.
• San– The people with the longest history in Namibia. There are many government-funded programs to help the San, as many are trying to maintain their nomadic lifestyle while living in an emerging modern world. There are a few San learners at my school. Their appearance is distinctive.
• Himba – Perhaps the most recognizable tribe of Namibia, the Himba mostly live in the Kunene region. Josh and I got to take a tour of a Himba village on our trip to Opuwo. The women spread ochre, spices and fat on their bodies to protect them from the sun. They are one of the last semi-nomadic tribes in Africa living in traditionally.
  

  During our visit to Opuwo, we got to visit a traditional Himba home to see first-hand the culture of this fascinating tribe.

• Basters – This tribe descended from Afrikaners who fathered children by Nama women. They consider themselves a separate community from Coloureds. Many Baster families left South Africa in the 1800s and relocated to Rehoboth in Namibia. Many Basters still live there today and speak Afrikaans.
• Coloureds – A mixed race tribe, coloreds tend to be well-educated and work in towns and cities in Namibia. They speak Afrikaans.
• Afrikaners – The white population of Namibia includes about 70,000 Afrikaners. They live throughout the country. Their language, Afrikaans, is a Dutch-dialect spoken by early colonists in South Africa. The very popular braai is considered part of Afrikaner cuisine.

Other populations you will encounter in Namibia but not in as high of numbers as the above:  Nyemba, German, Angolans, Portuguese, Chokwe, Jews, Indians, Chinese and other Asians, Tswana.

Me with my grade 11 register class (homeroom). It’s safe to say that just about all Namibian tribes are represented in my class.

 

Traditional Foods of Namibia

Making Fat Cakes at our Traditional Food Day during PST (Pre-Service Training). This took some serious arm muscle! I’m wearing a traditional Kavango shitenge (skirt).

Namibia is so diverse in landscapes as well as people with many tribes and cultures represented. Some countries in Africa have one major language or “mother tongue” (native language) and a few tribes, but Namibia has 13 languages. Namibians are very proud of their cultures.

It’s hard to really sum up the food here, because what you’ll eat largely depends on what part of the country you are in and what tribe you are with. In this post, I’m going to describe some of the food we’ve encountered and enjoyed while serving in Peace Corps Namibia.

During our first two months of training we lived with a Namibian host family who helped us learn about Namibian customs, traditions and the local food of the Kavango region, which would be our home for two years. Our host parents were originally from Kavango. Our host mom is a teacher and speaks more than 10 languages.

“Pap,” or maize meal porridge, is a staple for almost all Namibians. It is eaten anytime of the day, but especially with dinner. Many Namibians only eat one meal a day so it tends to be a big dinner with lots of pap. It has the consistency of cream of wheat, and by itself it doesn’t really have a taste. It’s a simple carb that fills you up.

A big dinner of fish and mahangu pap (millet porridge).

Here in Kavango pap is paired with mutete (a spinach dish usually with fish mixed in), meat, another side or eaten plain. Namibians love making Knorr soup packets into a sauce. Pap can be made from maize or from mahangu (millet). There are also drinks, both alcoholic and non-alcoholic, that are made from mahangu. We got to sample both during our visit to the village for Christmas 2013.

Our host mom making “pap” or porridge. You have to stir the pap for long periods of time. Traditionally women are the cooks in the house. I’m quite inept in the kitchen, and this amused our host mom.

A staple of the Kavango diet is the spinach dish mutete which reminds me a little bit of Indian saag, but without the cream or cheese.  Fat cakes or yikuki (pronounced yee-cookie) are also popular. They’re like plain donuts without the hole, but greasier and tastier. Most villages and towns have “Fat cake ladies” who sell fat cakes at the local schools or on the street in town for N$1 which is the equivalent of 10 American cents.

Our host family would often make a cabbage dish served with pap. It was cabbage fried in oil, and it was my favorite side dish.

A mopane worm, a traditional food sold in the markets here. They are actually caterpillars that are fried in oil and salt.

With our close proximity to Angola, we have also sampled tasty Portuguese-influenced Angolan dishes here in Rundu.

Meat is a very important part of the Namibian diet. On special or important occasions (weddings, visitors, parties or birthdays) goats and cows are often slaughtered for a braai. I can honestly say the meat here in Namibia is the best I’ve ever eaten. Grilling organic, freshly butchered meat (as in you saw it cut about five minutes ago) over an open fire creates an incredible flavor, better than barbecue I’ve had at home. Don’t create a cultural faux pas so make sure you serve meat when you invite guests to a meal in Namibia.

Braai Masters JT and Lucy at my friend Namakasa’s Grandmom’s birthday

Some of the exotic meats we’ve been able to eat while here in Africa have been zebra, oryx, springbok, warthog, ostrich, crocodile, donkey, goat and kudu. Donkey has been my personal favorite and is a commonly eaten by the Damara tribe.

Meat preparation before braaing.

Fish is also commonly eaten in the Kavango and Zambezi regions. We live close to the Kavango River and see people fishing all the time.

On this plate is a wide variety of Namibian foods including a fat cake, game meat and mutete.

Pap, baster bread and more meat.

There are some different fruits here in Southern Africa as well. Lychee are common (and SO good!) as well as Granadilla. When mangoes are in season they are sold on the street for $N5 (or around 50 American cents). Maguni fruit, also called monkey brains, is very common in Kavango Region. And of course there is marula.

Maguni fruit. Our language instructor opened this fruit with a rock. The fruit inside consists of small seeds – you take one and suck on it for awhile. It has a refreshing taste but doesn’t give you much nourishment.

The huge Baobab trees that grow in Southern Africa produce an edible fruit. This one was opened for us to sample during our Zimbabwe village tour. The inner fruit is very dry and looks like mini marshmallows. It doesn’t have much of a taste.

Traditional meals are eaten with your hands. To wash your hands before eating, a small basin filled with clean water is passed around. Napkins are not common so you lick your fingers after a meal – I like that. 🙂 A basin of water is also provided after a meal to rinse off your hands. Our host’s family children did not sit with the adults during meals, they sat separately and the adults ALWAYS ate before the kids. Ample meat portions were given to the adults first, and if it ran out, the kids did not get meat. The kids helped, or did the entire cooking and cleaning process themselves. They never complained or whined. After dinner most nights they swept and mopped the whole house. As a spoiled American kid who didn’t have to do any of the aforementioned chores, I was in awe of our host family’s kids great behavior and how much they helped the house run efficiently.

Sharing our first meal with our host parents, back in July 2013.

Below is a photo of my least favorite part of Namibian food, mayonnaise. I’m not sure why it’s so popular here, perhaps the German influence, as Germany “owned” Namibia it became a South African protectorate. Personally, I’ve never been a big mayo fan. Potato salad and macaroni salad are popular here. A big difference from home is that Namibians put a lot of sugar in both salads.  There’s more mayo added than I’m used to, and people will often add more mayo on the side. “Russians” (Hot dogs, sometimes not cooked, with thousand island dressing) are also popular.

It’s not ice cream, it’s mayo!

Ketchup is usually called tomato sauce here and is a frequent condiment on rice or pasta.

Soda, or “cool-drink” as it is called here, is everywhere. The coke here tastes so much better than it does at home. It’s made with real sugar and not corn syrup, and perhaps just the extremely hot temperatures also make it taste better.  Juice, lollipops and hard candy (called “sweets”) are also really popular. Even though I enjoy partaking in these bad treats now and again, it is hard to see little babies here drinking coke and eating sweets. Processed snacks like cheetos and chips are also available here.

At the grocery stores in town, we can find a lot of the commonly-eaten foods that we had at home. I’m still surprised at how much cheese we can get as well as yogurt and even cream! South Africa is the dominant grocery store powerhouse, and their diverse population has made many foods readily available for us.

Being in Namibia we’ve had the best of both worlds: easy access to diverse traditional foods as well as access to ingredients for some of the comfort foods from home such as Indian and Mexican dishes. It is even very easy to make apple pies!